TWO OF THE BEST FOODIE HOTELS IN THE WEST COUNTRY

Adrian Mourby

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Explore two of the West Country's best foodie hotels. Merchants Manor in Falmouth offers a luxury dining experience with seasonal tasting menus featuring fresh, locally-sourced seafood and ingredients. Boringdon Hall near Plymouth combines historic charm with Michelin-starred dining, where dishes highlight the West Country's rich produce and coastal flavors. With a thriving food scene known for its exceptional seafood, artisanal cheeses, and fresh vegetables, the West Country is a culinary paradise perfect for gourmet escapes!

Merchants Manor is a dog-friendly hotel (five of the 39 rooms are pet-friendly) set on a hill above the Cornish port of Falmouth. The original manor was built in 1913 for the Carne family, who were brewers and local entrepreneurs. This is a hotel for adults who love food and relaxation. There is also a spa and indoor pool but its greatest charm lies in its drawing room and library, rooms built for the Carne family that still radiate calm and understated affluence.

Adrian Mourby writes: "Merchants Manor is a hotel set on a hill above the Cornish port of Falmouth. The original manor was built in 1913 for the Carne family, who were brewers and local entrepreneurs. 
 
In 1958, this sumptuous family home was sold off to pay death duties, and two ladies opened it as the Green Lawns Hotel, a respectable B&B establishment that went on to become an events hotel capable of seating up to 200 people for wedding receptions.
 
In 2012, it was bought by Nick and Sioned Parry-Rudlin, who renamed it Merchants Manor. This was their first joint venture with a hotel although both had worked in the hospitality business beforehand. The couple brought in the London designer Helen Hughes who made a feature of the dark wood floors and stripped back the over-fussy décor. She also brought in Farrow & Ball paints and added in furniture in muted blues, grey and greens to create a hotel for adults. 
 
These days the hotel aims to give a luxury experience, with the emphasis on food. The seven-course tasting menu changes seasonally and is probably the best on the south Cornish coast. Imagine crispy monkfish, char siu hake, cucumber granita and Falmouth Bay scallops served with a dry Tokay. The dining room, now known as Rastella (Cornish for grill) was originally named Restaurant de la Garras by the two ladies during the 1960s and had its menus printed in French. These days it is darkly stylish with colourful modern art dramatically highlighted on the walls.
 
This is definitely a hotel for adults who love food and relaxation. There is also a spa and indoor pool but its greatest charm lies in its drawing room and library, rooms built for the Carne family that still radiate calm and understated affluence."
 
WHAT TO SEE NEARBY...
"Falmouth’s Art Gallery, on the way down to the award-winning High Street (2016), displays a collection of 19th—and 20th-century art, including many notable modern Cornish artists. It mounts four or five seasonal exhibitions a year."
 
 

A most unlikely hotel stands high on a hill beyond the suburbs of Plymouth. From the front, dog-friendly Boringdon Hall looks like a fortified manor house, which was in Tudor times; in fact, the history of Boringdon Hall stretches back as far as the Domesday Book...Now, this family-friendly hotel is home to 56 rooms and suites, two restaurants, an adult-only Gaia spa and manicured grounds and gardens.

Adrian Mourby writes: "A most unlikely hotel stands high on a hill beyond the suburbs of Plymouth. From the front, Boringdon Hall looks like a fortified manor house, which indeed it was in Tudor times. From behind, further up the hill it looks like a modern glass spa which indeed it is but it also has bedrooms in the spa, set along wide corridors that are lined with walls of living moss. These beautiful green vertical gardens are a natural way to purify the air and are said to de-stress those walking past them. Boringdon calls this its Wellness Wing and it which contains the hotel’s two most glamorous suites. Apollo and Hypnos are sunny with modern carpentry, beige sofas and chairs and private jacuzzi hot tubs on a patio leading off from the master bedrooms. Swallows nest under the eaves and fly overhead for daytime entertainment. In the evening there is a glassed-in flame-effect fireplace above what seems to be an oil painting but is in fact a TV. In fact this provincial reviewer only realised something was unusual when the oil painting mysteriously changed each time he was out on the terrace. Switch on the TV remote and the painting becomes your interactive TV for the evening.
So there are, in effect two Boringdons, depending on your taste. Inside the old house, four of the nine historic rooms have four-poster beds, creaky old furniture and reassuringly sloping floors. Then there’s the Wellness Wing with its treatment rooms, yoga studios, an indoor/outdoor swimming pool and a Spatisserie café. In fact my taxi driver knew of Boringdon as a spa more than a hotel.  
But the hotel’s reputation has also developed wonderfully in recent years thanks to Michelin-starred chef, Scott Paton who has massively raised the profile of Àclèaf. This fine dining restaurant sits on what looks like an old minstrel’s gallery above the bar. Àclèaf offers a superb tasting menu that is strong on flavour and presentation. On arrival you are asked to choose a geometric shape, a colour and a leaf before your meal starts so that the fourth course can be tailored to your personal taste.  Every meal begins with a flute of Gusbourne English sparkling wine with whom Boringdon has partnered for some time.
 
Every year the hotel adds more USPs. In 2023 it not only brought out the first. Àclèaf cook book (£50) but acquired its own beehives from Dartmoor. These are now looked after by Ashley Tod, the hotel’s own beekeeper who now provides Boringdon’s own honey.
 
An unexpected extra at Boringdon is the hotel’s “Secret Bar”, which knowing guests can access by pulling out a particular volume – Gone With The Wind - from a bookcase in the a corridor close to the Mayflower Restaurant.  On the other side of this hidden doorway lies a room with a series of comfortable armchairs, a fireplace and all the atmosphere of a gentleman’s club. This is a wonderful place for an after-dinner drink. Given that Boringdon reckons it has one of the most extensive wine cellars of any hotel in the Southwest of England, you could be in there for a while."
WHAT TO SEE LOCALLY...
"The naval city of Plymouth has a history that extends back to the Bronze Age. It also played a significant role in English history when in 1588 an English fleet based here defeated the Spanish Armada. In 1620 it was the departure point for the Pilgrim Fathers when they sailed to the New World colonies "