If you’re driving through the dramatic post-glacial valley of Glen Coe, huge granite hillsides rise up to intimidate the urban traveller. Dark clouds open to admit beams of golden light. On either side of the Highland A82, lakes and bogs lie in wait for the disorientated motorist. How wonderful therefore to find The Kings House, set back from the road near a little Victorian bridge, with bright lights blazing from its modern bar and dining room. There are cheery log fires in reception and an equally cheery staff in tartan waistcoats.
Although the new Kingshouse is less than ten years old, on a dark night it has the quality of Brigadoon: festive, cozy and so ideal you fear it may disappear by dawn. The antlered deer sauntering through the car park only add to the magic. Two in particular, known as Ted and Fred, are so unperturbed by hotel guests that they pretty much pose for photographs.
The original Kingshouse stood here on a tributary of the River Etive since the early eighteenth century when military roads were constructed across the Scottish Highlands. Inns that served the army engineers and garrisoned soldiers caught up in that ambitious task became known as “kings houses”. For many years after the occupying red coats left, this structure was just a small whitewashed pub that served traders and drovers crossing the Etive burn. Today it stands, beautifully restored as a single high-ceilinged drinking hall. In winter it hosts picturesque weddings and in summer it’s a welcome watering hole for walkers who follow the West Highland Way. The hotel caters for them in a nearby bunkhouse, where they can dry their boots, shower, and sleep six to a room.
The hotel’s real charm however lies in the new Kingshouse, which is connected to the old inn via a small art gallery with a piano for musical events. Crieff Hydro runs both the old pub and this 57-room extension. The reception area is one of the most relaxing you could hope to sit in on a cold winter’s day. There is a fireplace burning local timber and lots of comfy Chesterfield sofas. Those books on the shelves are mainly uninspiring library sets – encyclopaedias for decorative purposes only - but this is an ideal spot to snuggle down as the snow piles higher outside.
Not only is the hotel’s ground floor heated by four fireplaces, but the whole hotel – hot water as well as radiators - is heated by wood chips delivered twice a week from a local logging company. There is a lot of commitment to sustainability here. The venison, which plays a significant part in lunch and dinner menus, is from a local estate. Rope-grown mussels come from a local loch. Even the electronic room keys are laminated wood containing a metal strip.
Bedrooms to the front face Stob a’ Ghlais Choire and Stob Dearg, rock formations so mighty they ought to be honorary mountains. Each room is sensibly designed with the basics: desk, sofa, TV and bed. Switches are simple and the bathroom actually has a bath (wonderful after a cold day out in the winter elements). Breakfast is buffet-style including a chafing dish of haggis (we are in Scotland after all), and guests can order eggs and hot dishes from the staff.