J. Baker's

You might expect to find a 'bistro moderne' in Manhattan (where the term originated), less so in the historic city of York. But that's what chef and owner Jeff Baker has called his first venture since leaving the highly acclaimed (and now closed) Leeds restaurant Pool Court in order to signal it as a serious dining destination. A modest shop front conceals a simple, contemporary interior of wooden floors and polished table tops where dishes range from eight hour cured salmon with cucumber and 'caviar' trifle to chargrilled rib steak with duck egg and chips. A grazing menu offers the opportunity to dine modishly on smaller, lighter dishes or you can indulge in fresh Belgian truffles to eat in or take away in the restaurant's dedicated chocolate room.

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