Part of Rick Stein's Padstow empire, possibly the most surprising thing about this bustling, charming bistro is that it's not just fish that draws in the crowds, for the rustic, modern menu features a superb grill section. By working with local farmers, Stein's ensured that this is real pasture to plate stuff, and, unsurprisingly, the meat quality is outstanding. Serious steak aficionados should look to the 30-day dry-aged Devon ruby red sirloin, although those dining a deux may be torn by the 16oz chateaubriand. Of course if it's fish you're after, you'll find it here, too, with the likes of grilled lemon sole or cod with sauce verte… and all so fresh its virtually still flapping. Brilliant for families, a children's menu is available, along with half-sized portions of several dishes from the main menu (ideal for mini-gourmands whose eyes aren't bigger than their tummies). A three-course set menu for £27 provides awfully good value. Plus, if you eat in the snug or the courtyard, your dog's welcome, too.