TEN TOP CORNISH RESTAURANTS WITHOUT A SEA VIEW

Abigail Flanagan

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You don't have to search hard to find a Cornish restaurant with a cracking sea view; but while many are worth the visit, a fair few dish up less than average grub at above average prices, relying solely on their setting to pull in the (never to return) holidaymaking crowds. So don't be a slave to the seafront, take a wander through the backstreets or head further inland and you'll find gems like these ten where the view might not be all that, but the food most certainly is.
The Elephant Bar & Brasserie

“Here we like using our own and cooking with the seasons. Cornwall has some fantastic local produce and I want the money I'm spending on ingredients to be kept as much as possible within the community. Plus, by using seasonal produce I get the best quality – and guests know that what they're eating hasn't been frozen or come from abroad.” You can't argue with chef, Carl Milton's cooking philosophy, or his menu, which concentrates on uncomplicated, fresh, intense flavours rather than a confusing muddle. Beautifully presented and skillfully cooked, favourites include Cornish fillet steak with seared foie gras – so simple, but so delicious - and a baked Cornish goats cheese with beetroot puree that tastes as wonderful as it looks. Despite the grand Victorian mansion setting, prices for a three-course meal here are incredibly reasonable, with a plat du jour at £25, and the à la carte menu only £10 more. Meanwhile Sunday lunch is an absolute steal at just £19.95.

St Petroc's Bistro

Part of Rick Stein's Padstow empire, possibly the most surprising thing about this bustling, charming bistro is that it's not just fish that draws in the crowds, for the rustic, modern menu features a superb grill section. By working with local farmers, Stein's ensured that this is real pasture to plate stuff, and, unsurprisingly, the meat quality is outstanding. Serious steak aficionados should look to the 30-day dry-aged Devon ruby red sirloin, although those dining a deux may be torn by the 16oz chateaubriand. Of course if it's fish you're after, you'll find it here, too, with the likes of grilled lemon sole or cod with sauce verte… and all so fresh its virtually still flapping. Brilliant for families, a children's menu is available, along with half-sized portions of several dishes from the main menu (ideal for mini-gourmands whose eyes aren't bigger than their tummies). A three-course set menu for £27 provides awfully good value. Plus, if you eat in the snug or the courtyard, your dog's welcome, too.

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