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TEN MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS AN HOUR FROM LONDON

Andy Hayler

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For those wanting culinary sophistication but in a country setting, a short train ride or car journey can bring you to some superb establishments within an hour or so from London. All the restaurants below combine pretty countryside locations with Michelin-starred cooking.
The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

The Harrow is in a pretty Cotswold Village, with an attractive garden terrace and cosy dining room. The restaurant is run by chef Roger Jones and his wife Sue, the cooking highlighting top British ingredients such as line-caught turbot and sweet diver-caught scallops. I enjoyed poached Pembrokeshire lobster, a specialty of the restaurant.

Matt Worswick at The Latymer

Michael Wignall at The Latymer is the flagship restaurant at the Penny Hill Park hotel, which famously featured in the James Bond Film Goldfinger. Michael Wignall's cooking is sophisticated, with dishes such as ballotine of grouse, and uses high quality ingredients such as Challans duck. Service is as smooth enough as a vodka Martini cocktail (shaken, not stirred, naturally).

L'ortolan

The pretty old vicarage that houses l'Ortolan has played host to some famous chefs over the years, and is now owned by Alan Murchison, who himself has a high media profile. The cooking is firmly in classical French territory, with a ballotine of rabbit and foie gras a dish here that I particularly enjoyed. Service here is friendly and efficient.

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