St John Bar & Retaurant

The austere surroundings of this converted smokehouse are matched by the stripped back food on the plate. Chef Fergus Henderson’s signature roast marrow bones served with grilled sourdough bread and parsley, shallot and caper salad typifies his “nose to tail” ethos of using every part of an animal. The menu does what it says on the tin; order tripe and celeriac or veal heart and lentils and that’s what you get. It’s not all blood and guts cooking; fish dishes such as skate, chicory and anchovy are well worth ordering. British puddings including Eccles cake and Lancashire cheese or spotted dick and custard are justly famous. If you can’t get a table in the dining room, console yourself with Welsh rarebit and a pint in the atmospheric bar. Photos by Laurie Fletcher.

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