Penhelig Arms Hotel

With surprisingly few fish restaurants along the British coastline, it is a pleasure to come across this muted smart blue restaurant with views of the estuary, and with it a treasure trove of the riches of the sea to plunder. The changing menu – due to weather and seasons – may offer simply grilled plaice, cod, sardines and mackerel, char-grilled squid pepped up with chilli and olive oil, crab or smoked mackerel an attractive starter. Don’t miss the famed Penhelig fish stew or pie when available. Meat lovers are well looked after by a simple steak, rack of lamb or honey-roast duck with pea purée. Finish with a lemon tart, bread and butter pudding or chocolate brownies. The 100 bin wine list features 22 by the glass.

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